Speakeasy in Los Angeles – Hollywood, Tunnels, and Escape to Tijuana

Hollywood and Prohibition – A Different Story

Los Angeles in the 1920s was a city under construction. While New York had tens of thousands of speakeasies and Chicago was drowning in gang wars, LA was just becoming a metropolis. The film industry was moving from the East Coast, desert hills were transforming into residential neighborhoods, and the city's population was growing at an unprecedented rate – from 577,000 in 1920 to 1.2 million ten years later.

Prohibition in Los Angeles looked completely different than on the East Coast. The city had "only" about 400 speakeasies – a fraction of what New York (32,000) or Chicago (20,000) had. But what LA lacked in numbers, it made up for in style. Here, prohibition smelled of Hollywood glamour, tunnels beneath the city center, and weekend escapes to Mexico. This was not a story of workers drinking in dark basements – it was a story of movie stars, producers, and people who believed the law was for someone else.

11 Miles of Tunnels Beneath LA

Under the streets of downtown Los Angeles lies a network of tunnels totaling over 11 miles (about 18 km). Most were built at the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries as pedestrian walkways, utility channels, and corridors connecting government buildings. When prohibition went into effect in 1920, bootleggers immediately recognized their potential.

The tunnels connected the basements of hotels, restaurants, and public buildings into one vast labyrinth, perfect for smuggling and hiding alcohol. The corridors running beneath Hill Street were particularly heavily used, connecting luxury hotels to basements where barrels of whiskey and gin were stored. One of the tunnels led directly under the Hall of Justice – the courthouse and prosecutor's office – which was an irony everyone knew but no one spoke of loudly.

King Eddy Saloon at 131 E. 5th Street is one of the best-documented cases. Opened in 1906, the saloon officially closed with the onset of prohibition – but the basement beneath the building, connected by a tunnel to neighboring establishments, operated continuously for thirteen years of dry law. Alcohol was brought in through underground corridors, and guests entered through hidden doors in the floor. Today, King Eddy operates as a bar in the hotel lobby and showcases pieces of its prohibition history.

The tunnel network was used not only for smuggling. They served as escape routes during raids – when federal agents entered through the front doors, customers and bartenders vanished through underground passages, emerging several blocks away. Some tunnels had alarm systems – wired bells that warned of approaching agents.

Most tunnels are now closed or flooded, but fragments remain beneath buildings on Bunker Hill and along Broadway. Occasionally, underground tours are organized – tickets sell out within minutes.

Sunset Strip – No Man's Land

One of the most famous entertainment boulevards in the world owes its existence to a legal loophole from the prohibition era. Sunset Strip – a mile and a half stretch of Sunset Boulevard between Crescent Heights and Doheny Drive – did not belong to the city of Los Angeles. It was unincorporated territory of the county, administered by the Los Angeles County sheriff, who had far less enthusiasm for pursuing illegal bars than the LAPD.

This legal gray area changed everything. On the Strip, jazz clubs, gambling dens, and speakeasies sprang up like mushrooms after rain, attracting Hollywood stars looking for a place to drink without the risk of arrest. Nightclubs like Trocadero, Ciro's, and Mocambo became legendary nightlife spots – although their greatest glory came in the years just after prohibition, the foundations for this entertainment culture were laid in the 1920s.

The loose oversight of the county attracted not only drinkers but also the mafia. Bugsy Siegel, Mickey Cohen, and other Los Angeles gangsters treated Sunset Strip as their sphere of influence. The local sheriff turned a blind eye – or actively helped – while successive LA police chiefs helplessly watched the Strip's reputation grow.

It was this prohibition history that gave Sunset Strip the character it retains today – a place where the rules are a bit looser, nightlife a bit wilder, and the line between legal and illegal always a bit blurred.

Tony Cornero and the Gambling Ships

The most spectacular bootlegger in Los Angeles was not some gangster from a dark alley, but a showman in a white hat. Tony Cornero Stralla, known as “The Hat", was an Italian immigrant who turned alcohol smuggling into a grand spectacle.

Cornero started with classic bootlegging – bringing whiskey from Canada through Mexico and distributing it to bars in Southern California. He built a fleet of fast boats that transported alcohol from international waters to hidden docks along the coast. But his true masterpiece was what came next.

After prohibition ended in 1933, Cornero did not return to legal life – instead, he used his knowledge of legal loopholes and maritime routes to create something even more ambitious. He anchored the SS Rex – a converted passenger ship – three miles off the Santa Monica coast, beyond the reach of state law. Onboard was a full-fledged casino, restaurant, and bar – all legal, as it was technically in international waters.

Customers traveled to the Rex on "water taxis" from the Santa Monica pier. Business thrived – up to 2,000 guests daily, live music, luxurious meals, top-notch gambling.

Cornero's story perfectly captures the spirit of prohibition in LA – less violence, more theater. Where on the East Coast gangsters shot at each other with machine guns, in Los Angeles, a bootlegger in a white hat conducted a siege with fire hoses and a megaphone.

Escape to Tijuana – The Hollywood Trail

When prohibition made life in LA too complicated, Hollywood stars had an option unavailable to residents of New York or Chicago – they could simply drive to Mexico.

Agua Caliente in Tijuana – a luxury resort with a casino, horse racing track, hot springs, and of course, unlimited access to alcohol – became a favorite weekend destination for Hollywood. The distance of 190 km from Hollywood Boulevard to the Mexican border was covered in under three hours, and the border crossing at that time did not require a passport – just a nod to the guard.

The list of stars visiting Agua Caliente sounds like a cast of a blockbuster: Charlie Chaplin was a regular, Clark Gable came for horse races, Jean Harlow was photographed by the resort's pools. Young Margarita Cansino – daughter of Spanish dancer Eduardo Cansino, who regularly performed at Agua Caliente – danced there as a teenager. The world later knew her as Rita Hayworth.

The route from Hollywood to Tijuana became so popular that it earned an unofficial name – “Hollywood Trail". Weekend trips followed a regular pattern: Friday night in the car, Saturday and Sunday at Agua Caliente, returning Monday morning straight to the film set.

A stay at Agua Caliente was not cheap – the resort targeted a wealthy clientele – but for Hollywood stars and producers, cost was not an issue. A single weekend in Tijuana could cost the equivalent of a year's salary for an average worker.

Prohibition also had an unexpected impact on Mexican winemaking. The Baja California region, just across the border, developed wine production partly in response to demand from thirsty Americans. The winemaking tradition of Baja California, now valued by connoisseurs, has roots dating back to the 1920s.

Hollywood and Alcohol – Stars Above the Law

Hollywood in the 1920s lived in a bubble where prohibition was more of a joke than a law. Film studios had their own alcohol supplies for "company parties," producers maintained private suppliers, and stars photographed with a glass in hand treated it as part of their image, not a crime.

The most famous Hollywood alcoholic of the prohibition era was comedian W.C. Fields. According to legend – which he eagerly fueled – Fields amassed thousands of bottles hidden in various locations throughout Los Angeles, "in case prohibition returned." His most famous quote about alcohol was: “I always keep a supply of stimulants on hand in case I encounter a snake – which I also keep on hand".

Fields was not an exception – he was the rule. Actors, directors, and screenwriters drank openly, and law enforcement rarely intervened with people whose faces were known to every American. Arresting a movie star for drinking would have been a scandal – not for the star, but for the police.

It was during prohibition that the Hollywood nightlife pattern was formed, which persists to this day – luxurious venues with exquisite cocktails, private rooms for VIPs, doors opened only for the chosen. Modern speakeasies in Los Angeles do not so much reference the prohibition era as continue a tradition that was never truly broken.

Del Monte Speakeasy – The Only Survivor

At 52 Windward Avenue in Venice Beach stands a building that has been overlooking the ocean for over a hundred years. In its basement is the Del Monte Speakeasy – the only confirmed, continuously operating establishment in Los Angeles that functioned as a speakeasy during prohibition.

The building belonged to the Del Monte Hotel, one of many guesthouses serving beachgoers in Venice – a neighborhood created in the early 20th century as "America's Venice," with canals, gondolas, and arcade colonnades. When prohibition closed legal bars, the hotel's basement turned into a speakeasy – accessed through a hidden passage, with alcohol delivered by boats through the Venice canals.

For decades after prohibition, the venue underwent various incarnations but never completely closed. Today, Del Monte Speakeasy operates as a bar, retaining many original elements from the 1920s – brick walls, low ceilings, and the basement atmosphere where gin was served from bathtubs a century ago.

Cole's – The First Day After Prohibition

Cole's Pacific Electric Buffet at 118 E. 6th Street in Downtown LA is one of the oldest continuously operating establishments in the city. Opened in 1908, it claims to be the birthplace of the French dip sandwich (the rivalry for priority is with Philippe's, which is a few blocks away – two rivals for over a century).

Cole's survived prohibition as a restaurant – alcohol was officially not served, but older patrons recall that "coffee" in some cups had a suspiciously strong aroma. The true moment of glory came on April 7, 1933 – the first day when beer became legal again (full repeal of prohibition did not occur until December). Cole's tapped 58 kegs of beer in one day. The line stretched around the building, and the celebration lasted late into the night.

Today, Cole's is not just a restaurant with history – its basement houses The Varnish, one of the best cocktail bars in America, operating in a speakeasy format (more below).

What You Don’t Know About Prohibition in Los Angeles

Why So Few Speakeasies? Los Angeles in the 1920s was a city of cars, not pedestrians. Where a New Yorker would pop into a speakeasy around the corner, a resident of LA would get in their car and drive to a distant venue on the outskirts. This car culture dispersed demand – instead of hundreds of speakeasies on one street, like in Manhattan, LA had dozens of spots scattered across a vast area. It was much harder to count them, but also harder to find them without the right contacts.

The film colony was too young. Hollywood in the 1920s was a city that was just being born. It did not have the long-standing tradition of salons and bars like New York or Boston. Many residents were newcomers from other states – they had not yet built the network of illegal venues that existed in cities with older drinking traditions.

Corrupt police. LAPD Chief James “Two-Gun" Davis (police chief 1926–1929 and again 1933–1938) led the so-called “gun squad” – units that officially fought crime but in practice engaged in extortion and protection of gangsters. Davis was more interested in controlling illegal business than eliminating it.

The LA Riverbed. The concrete channel of the Los Angeles River – now associated with movie car chases – served as a smuggling route during prohibition. Under the cover of night, cars sped down the dry channel, transporting barrels of moonshine from distilleries on the outskirts of the city to distribution points downtown.

Floating speakeasies in Venice. The Venice Beach canals, built as a tourist attraction modeled after Venice, turned out to be ideal for another purpose. On boats moored at private docks, floating bars were set up – when the police appeared, the boat simply drifted to another canal.

Modern Speakeasies in Los Angeles

Los Angeles today has one of the most creative cocktail scenes in America. Modern speakeasies in LA combine Hollywood's flair for spectacle with top-notch cocktail craftsmanship – and unlike their historical counterparts, you don’t need to know anyone to get in. You just need to know where to look.

No Vacancy

Address: 1727 N. Hudson Ave, Hollywood

How to Enter: Approach a Victorian house that looks like it has stood here for a hundred years. You walk up the stairs to the porch, knock on the door. Someone lets you in – or not. Inside, you pass through an "antechamber" with antiques and descend narrow stairs to the main outdoor space – a spacious courtyard with a fire pit, bar, and stage.

No Vacancy is a theater from entrance to exit. Burlesque performances, fire swallowers, and DJs create an atmosphere as if a prohibition party met a circus. The cocktails are solid (12–18 dollars), but you come here primarily for the experience. Weekends can be crowded – reservations or arriving before 10:00 PM is a good idea.

The Varnish

Address: Behind Cole's restaurant, 118 E. 6th St, Downtown LA

How to Enter: Enter Cole's (the oldest operating restaurant in LA), go to the back of the establishment, and look for unmarked doors. Behind them – stairs down to a basement that remembers when Cole's served "coffee" in cups without handles.

The Varnish is one of the highest-rated cocktail bars in America – award-winning, listed in Tales of the Cocktail's Hall of Fame. There is no printed menu – you describe to the bartender what you feel like (sweet, sour, strong, light), and he creates a cocktail just for you. An intimate space (about 35 seats), brick walls, candles. Reservations are required on weekends.

Del Monte Speakeasy

Address: 52 Windward Ave, Venice Beach

How to Enter: Normal entrance from the street – but you go down to a basement that really was a speakeasy in the 1920s.

This is the only authentic, still-operating speakeasy from the prohibition era in Los Angeles. Original decor, low ceilings, brick walls. The atmosphere is raw and real – there are no Hollywood props or staging here. Prices are more affordable than in trendy downtown spots (cocktails 10–14 dollars). Ideal for starting the evening before a stroll along the Venice Beach boardwalk.

Good Times at Davey Wayne's

Address: 1611 N. El Centro Ave, Hollywood

How to Enter: Approach what looks like a 1970s garage. You open the refrigerator door – and step inside. Behind it awaits a time travel to vintage Hollywood.

Davey Wayne's is a themed bar with soul – retro furniture, arcade games, an outdoor bar garden. Cocktails served in cups, jars, and other unconventional vessels. Less serious than The Varnish, more fun than No Vacancy. Ideal for a group outing.

Death & Co

Address: 300 S. Santa Fe Ave, Arts District

A New York cocktail legend that opened its branch in LA in the arts district. Dark interior, elegant furnishings, cocktail menu with dozens of options – each crafted to perfection. Death & Co bartenders have won James Beard Awards and regularly appear on lists of the best in the world.

Prices are higher than average (cocktails 16–20 dollars), but the quality is worth it. Reservations are definitely recommended.

Employees Only

Address: 7953 Santa Monica Blvd, West Hollywood

Another New York transplant – and another success. The entrance is signaled by a neon sign with a fairy silhouette, and just behind the door sits a real fairy who reads palms (for free, but tips are appreciated). The interior – classic 1920s style: white tiles, brass details, bartenders in vests.

Employees Only is famous for its late-night kitchen – they serve food until 1:00 AM, which is rare in LA. Their bone marrow luge (bone served as a "shot glass" for vodka) is one of the most Instagrammable dishes in the city.

The Frolic Room

Address: 6245 Hollywood Blvd, Hollywood

Not a speakeasy in the sense of a hidden entrance, but a living relic from the early days after prohibition. Opened in 1934, right next to the legendary Pantages Theatre, Frolic Room is one of the last classic dive bars in Hollywood. A mural by Al Hirschfeld – the same artist whose caricatures of Broadway stars appeared in the New York Times for half a century – hangs on the walls.

Frolic Room is a place where time has stood still. A neon sign above the entrance, dark interior, cheap drinks, no pretensions. No cocktail menu – you order a beer or a simple drink. Cash only. According to urban legend, the last person to see Elizabeth Short (the victim of the infamous "Black Dahlia" case in 1947) alive was the bartender at Frolic Room.

Formosa Cafe

Address: 7156 Santa Monica Blvd, West Hollywood

Opened in 1925 – right in the middle of prohibition – Formosa Cafe truly remembers the dry law era. A favorite spot for gangsters and stars: Bugsy Siegel had his regular table, and Humphrey Bogart, Marilyn Monroe, and Frank Sinatra were regular guests.

After years of decline, Formosa underwent a major renovation in 2019. The restored venue retains the classic Hollywood vibe – red booths, dim lighting, photographs of stars on the walls – while offering a modern cocktail menu and Asian fusion cuisine. The original train car, which is part of the building (the restaurant expanded over time), still stands in its place.

Tips for Visitors

Los Angeles is a city of cars – and this rule applies to bars as well. Speakeasies in LA are scattered across dozens of neighborhoods miles apart. Spontaneously walking from venue to venue, as in New York, is nearly impossible here. Planning your route is key.

Route 1: Hollywood (3–4 venues, walking)

The only neighborhood where speakeasies are close enough together to visit without a car. Start at No Vacancy (Hudson Ave), then walk to Good Times at Davey Wayne's (El Centro Ave, 10 minutes on foot), ending at The Frolic Room (Hollywood Blvd, another 10 minutes). This route takes an evening and includes three completely different experiences – from theatrical entry, through retro fun, to a raw dive bar.

Route 2: Downtown (2–3 venues + dinner)

Start with dinner at Cole's, then head down to The Varnish for cocktails. If you want to continue, a taxi to the Arts District (15 minutes) and Death & Co. This route is a journey through LA history – from a restaurant dating back to the early 20th century, through an authentic prohibition basement, to the most modern cocktail scene.

Route 3: Venice + West Hollywood (whole evening, car or Uber)

Start at Del Monte Speakeasy in Venice (the only authentic speakeasy from the era) – worth coming for sunset. Then Uber to Formosa Cafe in West Hollywood (20–30 minutes drive) for cocktails in a gangster atmosphere. End the evening at Employees Only across Santa Monica Blvd – with a fairy and late dinner.

Practical Tips

• Dress code: Most venues expect smart casual – no shorts, flip-flops, or sports shirts. No Vacancy tends to be the most demanding.
• Reservations: The Varnish and Death & Co – mandatory on weekends. No Vacancy – definitely recommended. The rest – walk-in on weekdays, reservation for Friday/Saturday.
• Transport: Never drive after visiting a speakeasy. Uber and Lyft operate smoothly throughout LA. The metro (B/Red line) connects Hollywood with Downtown – the only real option for public transport for evening bar hopping.
• Budget: Cocktails at speakeasies range from 14–20 dollars plus tip (standard 20%). An evening at two–three venues costs 80–120 dollars per person including transport.
• Hours: Most speakeasies open at 5:00–6:00 PM. The best atmosphere is after 9:00 PM. California law prohibits alcohol sales after 2:00 AM – with no exceptions.