The story behind the recipe
Wanda Czubernatowa in her book "Góralskie jadło na co dzień i od święta" (2008) calls kwaśnica the basic and most well-known soup of the Podhale people. Kwaśnica also refers to the juice from the barrel where cabbage is fermented: "raw kwaśnica from the barrel" can be the base for the soup. In Małopolska, this juice is also called kapuśniorka, and housewives from the Łąck region would add water to it when scooping from the barrel, thus creating a new kwaśnica. In Podhale, at the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries, people mainly ate potatoes, cabbage, broad beans, and carp, while lamb, pork, and beef were reserved for special occasions. Lamb was smoked and hung for the entire winter in a spyrnik or attic, from where a piece could be cut off at any time to make kwaśnica. Czubernatowa writes: "All of Podkarpacie knew this divine gift, and every housewife brewed it in her own way, according to the richness of her pantry."
How does kwaśnica differ from kapuśniak? According to Czubernatowa, it is essentially a clear soup, where the liquid predominates and there is little cabbage floating. Ania Gotuje adds cabbage along with all the juice, without rinsing or chopping, and does not include carrots, parsley, or celery, boiling the potatoes separately. Kapuśniak, according to her, has less cabbage, usually chopped, without juice, and a sweet-sour taste from the vegetables. Kwestia Smaku calls kwaśnica a mountain kapuśniak without vegetables, except for potatoes, but with smoked ribs. However, sources are not consistent: a recipe from Małopolska published by RMF24 includes carrots, parsley, celery, and a roux, while the description of kwaśnica on the ministerial list mentions carrots. Therefore, it is not clear where the boundary lies, and kwaśnica is cooked in many ways.
Kwaśnica has been on the Ministry of Agriculture's List of Traditional Products since 2006, registered from the Silesian Voivodeship. The list describes it as a clear broth made from sauerkraut and pork, with potatoes and garlic, tasting from slightly to strongly sour, salty, and spicy, served as a main dish, and notes that it was sometimes cooked with lamb. Among the Małopolska entries, kwaśnica is not listed, but related dishes are: cabbage in the mountain style and kapuśniorka with mushrooms from the Łąck region. Czubernatowa provides twenty recipes for kwaśnica: fasting and Christmas versions (lean, with flaxseed oil, with mushrooms, with cream) and meaty ones, also with smoked meats, beef tail, or marrow bones. In Żywiecczyzna, it is said that kwaśnica is eaten on Christmas Eve made with fish heads.
Ingredients
Meat
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400 g raw pork ribs (with bones)
Abroad: USA and UK: pork spare ribs -
200 g smoked ribs (or smoked bones)
Abroad: Germany: Kasseler; USA and UK: smoked pork spare ribs -
150 g smoked bacon (raw or cooked)
Abroad: USA: slab bacon; UK: smoked streaky bacon; Germany: Bauchspeck geräuchert - 1.5 l cold water
Soup
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400 g sauerkraut (with juice, without rinsing)
Abroad: UK: Krakus Sauerkraut (Morrisons); USA: Silver Floss Barrel Cured Sauerkraut; ingredients: cabbage, water, salt, without vinegar -
250 ml sauerkraut juice (optional, for a more sour soup)
Abroad: Germany and Austria: Sauerkrautsaft (Biotta, Schoenenberger) -
2 pcs dried porcini mushrooms (optional, can use other mushrooms)
Abroad: dried porcini; Germany: getrocknete Steinpilze - 3 cloves garlic (sliced thin)
- 2 pcs bay leaf
- 3 pcs allspice (whole berries)
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1 tsp (5 ml) dried marjoram
Abroad: marjoram; Germany: Majoran -
½ tsp (about 1.5 g) caraway (ground or whole)
Abroad: caraway seeds; Germany: Kümmel; not cumin - ½ tsp (2.5 ml) black pepper
- salt (only at the end, if needed)
Potatoes
- 600 g potatoes (weight before peeling)
- salt (for the water)
Method, step by step
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Cut the raw ribs into pieces between the bones with one bone each. Place them in a pot with a capacity of at least 4 liters, pour in 1.5 liters of cold water, and bring to a boil covered over medium heat. You can skim off the foam with a spoon. Once the water boils, add the bay leaves and allspice, cover, and simmer on low heat for 40–50 minutes until the meat is tender.
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Meanwhile, peel the potatoes, cut them as for soup, and cook until tender in a separate pot of salted water. Drain them, but do not pour out all the water immediately: it will be useful if the soup turns out too thick or too sour.
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Remove the ribs from the broth, separate the meat from the bones, and cut it into bite-sized pieces. Return the meat to the pot.
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Add pepper and dried porcini mushrooms. Cut the smoked ribs and bacon into cubes and add them to the soup. If the bacon has skin, cut it off and place it in the pot in one piece, removing it before serving. Cook for 10 minutes.
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Add the sauerkraut along with all the juice. Do not rinse, squeeze, or chop it. If you like a very sour soup, also add the sauerkraut juice. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat so that the soup just simmers, cover, and cook for 30–40 minutes until the cabbage is tender.
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Add marjoram, caraway, and sliced garlic. Stir and cook for another 10 minutes covered.
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Taste the soup. Only now decide on the salt, as the cabbage and smoked meats have already contributed their saltiness. If the soup is too thick or too sour, add a bit of the water from the potatoes. Remove the skin from the bacon and smoked bones if you added them.
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Add the cooked potatoes to the hot soup just before serving or serve them separately on a plate. Serve kwaśnica hot, on its own or with bread.
Photos