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Żurek

Żurek made with rye sourdough, cooked with smoked meat and white sausage, flavored with marjoram, garlic, horseradish, and hard-boiled eggs. This includes tips on how to adjust the amount of store-bought sourdough, how to prepare sourdough at home, and what to look for in stores abroad.

Żurek w glinianej misce z białą kiełbasą i połówkami jajka na twardo

The story behind the recipe

The name comes from the German language. Brückner in the "Etymological Dictionary of the Polish Language" from 1927 derives żur from the German word "sür" (today "sauer"), meaning "sour," and notes that since the 15th century it has been a general name throughout the Slavic West, passing from us to Ruthenia. According to Polish Wikipedia, soups made from fermented grain were known in Poland as early as the 13th century as polewki and bryje, and earlier such a dish was called kisiel.

Gloger wrote in the "Encyclopedia of Old Poland" that żur, "a soup made from fermented flour, uncolored but lightened with milk, eaten with loose or dried peas, was one of the most beloved dishes of both the common people and the Polish nobility." During Lent, it was eaten with herring. At Easter, the court youth organized a "funeral of żur and herring": the herring was hung on a branch, and a pot of żur was smashed on the head of the novice. In villages on Good Friday, żur was poured into a pit or buried along with the pot.

Today, żurek is a hearty Easter soup, often served in bread, and on Christmas Eve, a meatless version is prepared. There are several varieties listed in the Ministry of Agriculture's List of Traditional Products, including Kraków żurek, Kujawy żur, Silesian żur, Jurajski żur with mushrooms, and Łemko keselica made from oats. There is no agreement on how żur differs from żurek. The PWN Dictionary treats żur, żurek, and white borscht as the same, while chefs divide them differently, for example, by flour: żurek made with rye, white borscht made with wheat.

Ingredients

Broth

  • 1.3 l cold water
  • 150 g raw smoked bacon (or 300 g smoked ribs or bones)
  • 400 g raw white sausage
    Abroad: Polish stores and delicatessens
  • 1 pc carrot (about 80 g)
  • 1 pc parsley (root) (about 60 g)
  • 50 g celery (a piece)
  • 1 pc onion (about 100 g)
  • 2 pcs bay leaf
  • 4 pcs allspice (whole berries)
  • black pepper (a few berries)
  • 1 clove garlic
  • 3 g dried porcini mushroom (one slice, not necessary)

Soup

  • 400 ml sourdough for żurek (store-bought or homemade; add gradually, 300–500 ml to taste)
    Abroad: Polish stores, in the USA also as "Zakwas na Żur"
  • 2 tsp (10 ml) dried marjoram
  • 100 g 18% cream (or 50 ml of 30% cream)
  • 2 cloves garlic (pressed, at the end)
  • 1 tsp (5 ml) grated horseradish (up to 2 teaspoons, not necessary)
  • salt and pepper (to taste)

To serve

  • 4 pcs eggs (hard-boiled)
  • rye bread (or round loaves for serving żurek in bread)

Homemade sourdough (instead of store-bought, prepare 7–8 days in advance)

  • 500 ml water (boiled and cooled)
  • 6 tbsp rye flour type 2000 (up to 100 g)
    Abroad: Germany: Roggenvollkornmehl or Roggenmehl Type 1740 or 1370; USA, Canada, UK, Australia: whole rye flour, wholemeal rye flour or dark rye flour
  • 5 cloves garlic (about 25 g)
  • 4 pcs bay leaf
  • 10 pcs allspice (whole berries)

Method, step by step

  1. If you are making sourdough yourself, prepare it 7–8 days in advance. In a sterilized jar, add rye flour, peeled garlic, bay leaves, and allspice, pour in boiled, cooled water, and mix well. Cover with cheesecloth, do not screw it shut, and place it in a moderately warm, shaded spot. Stir daily with a clean spoon. Strain the ready sourdough and put it in the fridge.

    Step 1
  2. Broth: pour cold water into a pot, add bacon (or ribs), peeled carrot, parsley, celery, and onion, bay leaves, allspice, pepper, a clove of garlic, and a slice of dried porcini mushroom. Bring to a boil, skim off the foam, and simmer covered on low heat for about an hour.

  3. Prick the white sausage in several places, add it to the broth, and cook very gently for about 15 minutes, until cooked through. The water should only tremble slightly, as boiling too hard will cause the sausage to burst. In the meantime, boil the eggs until hard.

    Step 3
  4. Remove the sausage and bacon, and strain the broth; you can discard the vegetables and spices. Slice the sausage, dice the bacon, and return the bacon to the broth.

    Step 4
  5. Shake the sourdough bottle well to mix the flour from the bottom. Pour 300 ml into the soup while stirring, taste, and add the rest little by little until the żurek is as sour as you like.

  6. Bring the soup to a boil and simmer on low heat for a few minutes until it thickens slightly. Add the marjoram, crushing it between your fingers over the pot.

  7. Mix the cream in a cup with a ladle of hot soup. Remove the pot from the heat and pour in the cream, stirring. From this point on, do not boil the żurek anymore.

  8. Add the pressed garlic and horseradish, season with salt and pepper. Return the sausage slices and heat through without bringing to a boil.

  9. Ladle the żurek into bowls or hollowed-out loaves of bread, add halves of eggs, and serve with rye bread.

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